THE GERTY PROJECT

The new year is coming. The thirst for learning becomes unquenchable. I have decided to spend 2018 in a bewildering, mesmerising way, with the best mate ever : Gertrude Bell.

Who is Gertrude bell? That’s a tricky question. She is a puzzle, a mix of so many things. A savant, a plume, a maverick. She is best known as the woman who shaped Iraq, fascinated by the tribes living in the region.

She is also famous for being a wonderful mountaineer, a spy during WW1, the friend and colleague of Lawrence of Arabia. Gertrude is undefinable. She doesn’t fill the boxes, that’s why I love her.

Through the year, we will go where she went, we will be overwhelmed by the magical feeling of discovering her stunning personality. The journey will be long, hilly, delightful. It begins right now and it might change us in the most unbelievable way. Let’s go on board for Gertie doesn’t like to wait!

MY JOURNEY

DAY 1 : CHAMONIX MONT-BLANC

Wandering in Chamonix, a city visited by Gertie in 1900. Gertie loved to scramble around the rocks, to climb the highest mountains. She stayed at the Hotel Couttet, located in the city center. The hotel still exist today but would need a fresh start. In ruins, weighed down by age and weariness, it has been closed since 1970. Hopefully, next year, it’s gonna rise from the ashes and become a hotel again. For now, it is quite forgotten by locals. But under still water, life always swirls. Some days, the ground floor is opened to welcome inhabitants of the valley. It was an awesome opportunity to ask some questions. First try, i met young musicians dressed in a Bob Marley style. The room was filled with instruments. A few bands play music here; according to a timetable posted on the wall. At the back, an old chimney, probably dating back from the great times.  What remains of the hotel? Not much says one musician. It’s quite destroyed inside. Really, what about the stairs? Still there somewhere. Unfortunately, it’s impossible to explore the old structure. Few days later. Another room. Most impressive and fuelled with the energy of an old secret. A beautiful pillar reminds us of the past. It hosts a bridge club. Under still waters time survives. Going to visit the city hall, once a splendorous hotel. Around me, an exhibition featuring artists who stayed in  the city. They were army. Georges Sand, Pasteur, Ruskin. No recollection of Gerty whatsoever. Has everyone forgotten that the khatoun was one the greatest climbers of her time? Can the passer-by imagine that part of the history of literature took place here in that three floor building with no heating? Well, that’s a story that needs to be further explored. For now, let’s hope that the next pages will leave the hotel in a better state.